5. (Apiece Apart)
For last season's ode to 1980s downtown creatives—Alex Katz, Tina Weymouth, and all the rest—Apiece Apart sent out a collection uncharacteristically rich in pattern: There was television static, kinetic geometrics, and bold stripes. Now in its Spring offering, it's taken a step back and instead of doing it heavy this season, they've thrown a light take of inspiration. As they are inspired by the stark graphic appeal of the Grecian islands.
----Shades of Red (desaturated): Monochromatic-----
----Shades of Blue (desaturated): Monochromatic-----
Their design translation was very much into the paramount of space and light. So designers Starr Hout and Laura Cramer cast palazzo pants and boxy little crop tops, in marine blues and whites, sheeny chambray, and substantial linen.
They riffed on traditional Grecian key motifs and the blue and white color-blocked dresses evoked the Aegean and whitewashed walls nicely. I'm pretty sure those will look just as nice on the streets of Manhattan with a midi skirt, as rumpled over a maillot on some beach in Hydra.
This season's collection, the designers have gotten the distinct impression we were in Slimane's adopted hometown of L.A., hanging backstage with glam-rock fan girls Lori Maddox and Sable Starr in their bad old not even legal days on the Sunset Strip.
---Complimentary (Red and Green)---
Accessories were the most obvious shift from the mid-'60s pop tarts instead of sparkly Mary Janes and opaque tights, platform sandals, black hosiery, and the odd Donna Jordan turban or two.
--Shades of Orange (Monochromatic)--
A lot of people actually says that their designs looked too much the same as last season's but if your look closely, you will see the greater indulgence in color.
--Complimentary (Blue and Orange)--
In all senses, we could say that the collection is high in energy. Fun and kinky!
3. Alice+Olivia Collection
The designer Stacey Bendet took inspiration from the modern art installations often hosted at Versailles, transforming one of her old friend Lola Schnabel's paintings into a print. It landed on a full skirt and a pleated top, as well as a fitted sheath.
---Complimentary: Light Blue and Orange---
There were a lot of '70s influences, too—handkerchief dresses; high-waist, wide-leg trousers—many inspired by her mother's wardrobe from the era. There were '50s-style tea dresses and beaded gowns as well.
---Complimentary: Shades of Blue and Yellow---
The designer also created a digital print out of a photo she took of the gardens during the trip vacation with her Mom and daughter, and showed a sweater embroidered with little crowns and other remembrances of Marie Antoinette's court.
Most Prominent Colors: Red-Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue
---Rectangle also known as Tetratic Color Scheme---
Bendet has shown similar pieces in the past, but this time they just really worked. The colors were vibrant and fresh. And they captured that casual glitz Bendet so enjoys.
2. Erdem
According to the reviews, on Erdem Moralioglu's mood board, there were pictures of Katharine Hepburn in The African Queen, a proper woman "going bush," unhinged by the jungle. That was the set: steamy, dark, slightly sinister. And that was also the scenario.
Most prominent Colors: Blue, Blue Green, Yellow Green
---Analogous Color Scheme---
According to Erdem, he compared the collection into "trapping something wild." And it was the wildness of nature, rather than its order, that truly absorbed him in this collection.
Prominent Color: Blue Green, Green, Yellow Green
---Analogous Color Scheme---
There were dresses where lush greenery was gorgeously tamed in long, lustrous gowns.
Most prominent Colors: Blue, Green
---Analogous Color Scheme---
His collection ended up with a bang with the classic and the chaotic together, in one elegant, career-defining package.
1. Thom Browne
Thom Browne rocked it all. As my favorite designer of this season, I would have to agree with the commentaries about his collection because this man did it again. Just when you thought there was no longer any way to spin the ludicrous extravagance of a Thom Browne show, the man turned the game upside down with a collection whose paradoxical marriage of restraint and excess produced a genuine, Stone Gon' fashion moment.
1. Thom Browne
Thom Browne rocked it all. As my favorite designer of this season, I would have to agree with the commentaries about his collection because this man did it again. Just when you thought there was no longer any way to spin the ludicrous extravagance of a Thom Browne show, the man turned the game upside down with a collection whose paradoxical marriage of restraint and excess produced a genuine, Stone Gon' fashion moment.
Most Prominent Colors: Red, Blue, Yellow
---Triadic Color Scheme---
A jigsaw of Mylar leather encased a perfectly acceptable cocktail dress. It was the stuff of a sci-fi fashion fairy tale. And yet it was also remarkably (for Browne at least) accessible.
Most Prominent Colors: Orange, Red, Green Blue
--Tetradic Color Scheme--
The wit, the craft, of every hat was like the genius of the collection writ small.
Most Prominent Colors: Yellow, Red, Green, Blue
--Square also known as Double Complimentary Color Scheme--
There were any number of pieces that could have stepped straight off the grassy catwalk and onto the steamy asphalt of the street outside. That felt like a breakthrough for Browne, which also meant that, at last, his extreme, eccentric showmanship yielded unambiguous dividends.
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